Blake, Goodyear, Bologna: shoe constructions explained properly

When you pick up a shoe, the real difference isn't visible from the outside: it lies in how the upper is joined to the sole. That is the "construction", and it decides whether a shoe is stiff or soft, whether it can be resoled, how long it lasts and how comfortable it is from day one. Here are the constructions you'll find in our shop, without needless jargon.

Blake: light, flexible, Italian

In Blake construction the sole is stitched directly to the upper with a single seam that runs inside the shoe. The result is a slim, light and flexible shoe that moulds to the foot almost immediately: no breaking-in period. It is the classic construction of the elegant Italian shoe, and it can be resoled, so a good pair will stay with you for years. The small price to pay is that it is less water-resistant than other constructions, because the stitching passes through the sole.

You'll find it on many of our classic men's styles: the lace-ups by Green George, by Pawelk's and from our own Sangiorgio line, such as the Oxford in black leather with its Blake-stitched leather sole.

Goodyear: the toughest

In Goodyear welted construction the upper and the sole are not stitched directly to each other, but each to a strip of leather in between called the welt. Between the sole and the insole there is a cavity filled with cork, which over time takes the shape of your foot. It is the toughest and most weatherproof construction, the one used on shoes that last decades and can be resoled several times. In exchange it is stiffer at first and needs a few weeks to soften up.

Goodyear Flex: toughness without the stiffness

This is the evolution that made the welted shoe wearable straight away. Fabi uses it across much of its collection: the welt and the ability to resole remain, but a lightened construction makes the shoe flexible from the very first day. It's the right choice if you want a shoe that lasts but don't fancy breaking it in: you'll find it on Derbys, loafers and double monks among our men's lace-up shoes and men's loafers.

Ideal: the MOMA construction

It is what gives MOMA shoes their character: an exposed construction with sturdy stitching and leathers treated to have that lived-in look from the start. The result is a shoe that is artisanal but casual, comfortable straight away and made for everyday wear, one that ages well and gets better with time.

Bologna: the softest of them all

The Bologna construction (or "sacco bolognese") wraps the foot like a sock: the upper is stitched into a pouch all the way round and then mounted onto a flexible sole. The result is a softness you feel immediately, with the shoe bending along with your foot. It is the construction behind the most comfortable loafers, the one we recommend to anyone who wants elegance but can't bear stiff shoes. In our shop we came to know it above all through Botti, one of the long-standing brands we carried for years. Today you'll find it on some styles by Calpierre, among our men's lace-up shoes and men's loafers.

Sacchetto: softness in women's shoes

The sacchetto construction is the lighter cousin of the Bologna, and it is the one we see most often in women's footwear: the upper is stitched directly to the insole, with no rigid structures in between, and the shoe turns out flexible and extremely light. That's why certain ballet flats and pumps feel as comfortable as slippers while staying elegant. You'll find it on many styles by L'Arianna among our women's pumps and ballet flats.

Which one to choose

You want a shoe that lasts decades and don't mind breaking it in → Goodyear.

You want durability with immediate comfort → Goodyear Flex.

You want light, classic Italian elegance → Blake.

You want maximum softness → Bologna or sacchetto.

You want a casual shoe that ages beautifully → Ideal.

An honest note: no construction is "the best" in absolute terms. They are different answers to different needs, which is why the first question we ask in the shop isn't how much you want to spend, but when and how often you'll wear them.

How to make them last

Whatever the construction, three rules always apply: don't wear the same shoes two days in a row, use wooden shoe trees that absorb moisture and hold the shape, and have them resoled before the sole wears through completely: on a Blake or a Goodyear that is routine work, and it doubles the life of the shoe.

If you want to go deeper into the styles, read our guide to Oxford, Derby and Brogue and the one on types of loafers.

Find them at Sangiorgio

We have been a shoe shop since 1947 and we handle these differences every single day. Every pair is 100% original, with fast shipping and exchange or return within 30 days. If you want to work out which construction suits you, message us in the chat: we'll explain it, model in hand.